The plan was to get up in the dark, and be at the beach to watch the sun rise on my birthday.
I had done it years before at
Playalinda Beach, but not this year.
First of all, Playalinda lies within the Cape Canaveral National Seashore, which in turn lies within the Kennedy Space Center complex. I knew that, while the shuttle Endeavor was on the pad, the gates would be closed at least ten miles out.
Secondly, I had forgotten how much I hated getting up before dawn. Only fishermen or people who deliver newspapers, or who are on morning radio, do it on a regular basis. I used to do the radio thing, only because I got paid for it...and because it let me slack off the rest of the day.
Fishermen are another species entirely.
So I watched the sun come up as a red ball, surrounded by the morning haze, as I headed east on State Road 44.
It had been years since I'd been here, and was pleased to find the old back road I remembered, had been transformed into a newly resurfaced four-lane with minimal traffic. On the outskirts of town, I stopped at a new Publix grocery story, next to a new Wal-Mart, for provisions: 45 SPF sunscreen, that smelled like berries, and a couple of bottles of Zephyrhills water.
Back on 44 east, after a couple of miles, I made a left and headed over the north causeway (a fairly high one...I notice these things) that set me down right onto Flagler Avenue in the heart of downtown
New Smyrna Beach.
I drove up the ramp to the small guard shack to pay my beach toll, only to be told that the beach wouldn't be open until 8 o'clock.
"So where can I get a cup of coffee before then?" I asked the man in the booth.
"You could go back a block to the Beacon Restaurant", he said "but the coffee's better at the place around the corner from there."
"Where's that?", I asked.
"7-eleven", he said, with a smile.
Fifteen minutes later I was back, and handed him a five dollar bill, in exchange for a pink card I put on the dashboard. The convertible top on the Miata was down, and I was ready to cruise. I asked him how far I could drive along the beach.
"Two point five miles north", he said "and two point five miles south."
"And about 50 yards east", I replied, as I put the car in gear.
He gave me a little smirk...as one smart ass to another.
It was a Tuesday, and I seemed to be the first car on hard packed sand, aside from the big SUV's with "Beach Patrol" painted on the side. Each was driven by a guy with an impossible tan.
I traveled in second gear at 10 miles per hour, and headed north.
I passed a summer surf class for kids, some dragging surfboards twice as tall as they were, and drove for two more miles, until I came to a rocky outcropping.
This was where the road ended and the real surfers had gathered.
It was almost like an updated version of one of those 1960's
beach movies, except these kids didn't dance as much and probably couldn't sing in harmony, because of all the irony.
The rocks jutting out into the Atlantic apparently serve two purposes; they give a bunch of people with fishing poles a place to stand a hundred yards away from the shore, and they break up the incoming tide to give surfers a rip current out, and a really good ride back.
I turned around and drove back to the middle of the beach, watching the sun burn off the remaining haze as it rose ever higher over the water. I found a place where the sand wasn't too deep and parked the car.
This was it.
I took off my shirt and lathered on more sun screen. (It was supposed to be water-proof, and smelled like berries.)
This was the actual going into the ocean ritual.
Slowly, I walked in the direction of the rising sun. The tide was out, so it was a pretty long walk.
***
The TV weatherpersons had said the water temperature was 80 degrees, but that's still 18 degrees lower than my body temperature, and I've never been one to just jump right in.
I try to establish a "relationship" with the ocean...first, I get my feet wet, then the ankles...up to the knees, ever wading out...until a large wave inevitably comes out of nowhere, blind-siding me, and knocking me down into a wet state of full commitment.
So now, the preliminaries are over, and I am completely submersed in the blue-green brine.
At some point, I feel the sensation of being pulled rapidly out to sea in what appears to be unusually calm water. This is the much publicized "rip current" effect, that has created panic in beach goers for generations.
I immediately remind myself that I am not likely to be pulled out far enough to be a hazard to shipping lanes before landing on the coast of Liberia.
Rip currents can move up to two feet per second, or 120 feet a minute, or faster than you can swim. It should be obvious that you don't want to try and swim against the current directly back to shore.
Obvious, yet a hundred people a year drown trying to do just that.
I decide to flip over onto my back (people float better in salt water than in fresh water, remember) and sort of ride the waves to shore. I end up safely in water up to my knees, albeit a hundred yards north of where I started.
I take this little adventure to be a subtle suggestion that it is time to get out of the ocean. Despite our growing relationship, she has turned possessive and somewhat dangerous. I had spent a little over an hour in the sea, and didn't want to get too exhausted. I also didn't entirely trust the water resistance of the sun screen called Hawaiian Tropic "Sun Junk" I had spread on myself earlier (even if it did smell like berries).